Part IV - Bhutan - rightly called the last Shangri La

Concluding Post on Bhutan

Day 6 and 7 June 10th and 11th, 2013: Tiger's Nest - Paro - Haa Valley - Thimpu

Ugyen Phendyling Resort begins it's restaurant at 5 a.m. in the morning - so those wanting to trek up to the Tiger's Nest Monastery can catch breakfast early. We, however, decided that filling our tummy might make the trek difficult. So we had a cup of tea and some cracker biscuits and left at 6.45 a.m. for the base of the trek. I regretted this decision after an hour :( We had packed some biscuits and some canned juice which we had later.

We reached in 15 minutes and then had to wait for another 45 minutes because we wanted to hire a pony for our daughter - and there was a lot of discussion amongst the guys hiring out horses / ponies about who we should hire from and how much money we should be charged. Our cab driver had given us an idea and we paid Rs.600 (this was the rate we saw others paying too). There was also the question of a caretaker along with the pony - so then we went as part of a group - 2 other tourists on a horse and our kid on a pony - all managed by 1 caretaker. As a token of gratitude, we paid Rs.100 to the caretaker. The guys at the base will insist that it is easy to take a horse / pony by yourself and it is - however, at times the horses stop of their own accord for a break and they need to be coaxed to keep walking ; also, once we reach further up, they need to be tied to a tree while we relax and have some tea, sometimes they need a sip of water from the water sinks provided enroute - so it is better to ask for a caretaker. At the base you can purchase a walking stick and some prayer flags to tie near the monastery or enroute. We bought neither.

hiring a pony is easy - but they will waste some of your time

by talking amongst themselves

we saw about 2 benches enroute - maybe there were

more but we never looked

our convoy

The Tiger's Nest Monastery - Taktsang (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paro_Taktsang) trek can be divided into 3 stages. Stage 1 ends at the Takshang Cafetaria. The cafetaria is  a short walk and you can enjoy a cup of tea (Rs.85) + complimentary crackers (they were everywhere in Bhutan - Malaysian brand called  Munchy's) while watching the Tiger's Nest Monastery on the opposite cliff.  It took us 45 minutes to reach and we were grateful for the break and the unhindered view of the monastery. After spending about 20 - 30 minutes here (since we had to wait for the group) we started the next stage.

stage 1 complete - horses and humans resting

short walk to the cafetaria

view from cafetaria

Stage 2 ends at a small clearing. This is stage 2 because a. the horse/ pony can come up only till here ; b. steps begin from here. We took another 40 minutes to reach here. Notably, one can take the horse / pony only while climbing up. We took a short break and clicked some pictures of the monastery (which now seems to be at eye level on   an adjoining cliff) and then started the next stage. 

stage 2 begins

our goal

another cafe - but we didn't visit

Stage 2 complete

Stage 3 are steps - first down a flight of 400 steps. This is something we completed in less than 15 minutes except for some photo opportuities. We came to a short stone bridge and the soothing sound of water splashing at the waterfall there. Then it was 300 steps up. But frankly, steps were the easiest part of the entire trek. Here there is a police check post and we had to deposit our camera's and all other electronic gadgets. 

For those who might have missed taking a loo break near the cafetaria, there is a sort of loo here.

view from stage 2 clearing 

at the stone bridge and waterfall

(fellow travellers congratulated our daughter for making it till the Monastery)

Then we went up a few more steps to the monastery. It is divided into sections. The main is the cave where Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava) meditated. One can visit the shrine where  manifestation of the guru is worshiped ; the cave itself is closed (however, the cave can be viewed from a shrine on top). Another is the narrow rock entrance where the flying tigress had reached when she brought the guru on her back. As always, the Bhutanese will go out of their way to ensure you have understood the place you are visiting and seen everything there is to see. Guides, with a tourist group, were paying their obeisance and on seeing us they took it upon themselves to guide and show us all the shrines including the entry to the meditation cave - it's like a cellar inside a shrine on top. They were so helpful, we were indeed grateful.

After spending about half an hour at the Monastery we came back to the police checkpost, collected our camera's and other stuff and clicked some snaps of the valley from the viewpoint there.

We started for the return journey, taking a halt to burn 3 butter lamps at a place along the steps. The return journey was no doubt quicker, however, our knees were very stressed out after such a steep climb down.

Last night we had hired a taxi (Rs.4500) for today and tomorrow and Harilal, our driver, had asked us to call him once we start our return trek from the monastery. He had said he would come and wait for us at the base. We reached back at 12.45 p.m. having started at 7.45 a.m. - 5 hours in total. I bought some items at the stalls there and since Harilal was waiting with the taxi, we went straight to see the Drukgyel Dzong (which was destroyed by fire some years ago). This dzong is further ahead the road. We just made a round trip to this sight - did not get down from the cab. It was a sunny clear day in Paro and enroute we caught a glimpse of the gorgeous Himalayan Mountain Peak (the tallest peak in Bhutan) Jomolhari. We were so excited to see it. The photo below is a close up - the mountain is many miles away.

Drukgyel Dzong

Mount Jomolhari view from Paro - enroute Drukgyel Dzong

Then we went to Paro town and had our meal at Sonam Trophel Restaurant. Please note that the Hotel by the same name is further up the road and it looked quite good. We ordered pork momo's, rice and dal (for our kid), chicken chowmein and chicken thukpa. The food was not as good as Zombala in Thimpu, but it was nice, no complaints. We were too tired to remember to take a snap of this place or the food. Daughter of the owner of Sonam Trophel was at the desk and she was friendly and answered all our queries about handicraft purchases and other shopping in Paro. About handicrafts she said we should visit a few handicrafts stores around and bargain. Regarding other shopping she said we could come after 4 p.m. however since most items are imported from India or China and Malaysia even she wondered whether it would of interest to us. She directed us to a bakery to satiate our sweet tooth after the meal. This bakery called "Brioche" (a few shops from Sonam Trophel restaurant) is run by a lady called Roopa and she works at Hotel Amankora (top end). The bakery is her second job, her own enterprise. So the breads, bakes and pastries we got here were amazing. Yummyyyy.

a must visit in Paro

cup cakes, coconut macaroons, chocolate eclairs and croissants et all 

There was a short spell of rain to take care of the hot sunny day in Paro. But it settled pretty quickly. Next we went to a few handicraft shops before coming to "Bhutan Made" (a few shops from Brioche). We were impressed with their collection and they seemed to be economical than the others. Also i bargained a bit. After spending nearly 45 minutes at this handicraft store, we went to a departmental store to purchase some malaysian "Munchy's" crackers, bottled water, Bhutanese Rum and Ara and some seaweed - something i don't know how to cook and still wondering why i bought it ? 

We returned back to our resort, had a cup of tea and went to our room to relax. We had yet to book hotels for 2 more nights, 1 in Thimpu and the other in Siliguri. I had shortlisted a few hotels in Thimpu since Tandin was not available. Then i suddenly remembered Hotel Sinchula's reference - Hotel Wangchuk. We called Wangchuk and checked whether they had room. They confirmed but when we told them that we had reference of Sinchula they said they needed a call from Sinchula to give any discounts. We then called up Sinchula Manager and he instantly helped us out. We will be ever so grateful to him for this kind gesture. We got Hotel Wangchuk room at Rs. 1400 instead of Rs.2000. Then i booked hotel sharda in siliguri on the basis of a review on trip advisor - a decision we sorely regretted and have ensured the correct review goes on trip advisor.

We had booked a Hot Stone Bath for ourselves and it was waiting for us at 6.30 p.m. This mineral rich hot bath was just what we needed today after the trek in the morning. We would have loved it if the weather had been cooler (maybe next time we will opt for such a bath in Phobjika) but all the same we enjoyed it thoroughly.

wooden bath tubs filled with water, heated from 

underneath with the help of hot stones

After this relaxing therapeutic bath we simply wanted to doze off. But since we had already ordered our meal, we went to the restaurant and had some delicious Bhutanese food.

Shamu (mushroom) datshi 

We liked the chicken curry they made and shamu datshi. However we did not like the taste of the dal with seaweed - since seaweed seems to be an acquired taste and we found it quite repulsive. (that's why i am still wondering what i am going to do with my stock of seaweed)

After the sumptuous meal, we called it a day. Next day was a trip to the last destination on our itinerary, the Haa Valley.

Next morning, after breakfast we pushed off to see Chelela Pass and Haa Valley. We took a break in Paro town to withdraw some cash and visit our driver Harilal's grocery shop. He was giving us a different driver today since he had some work. He however kept his word and had kept his older daughter's Kira and Toego (pronounced Tehu) ready for our daughter to wear and click photographs. Later we purchased a set for our daughter from Thimpu and Jaigaon. 

Harilal's younger one "Poonam"

Having seen Dochula, we found Chelela just ok - except for the fact that we could view some part of the Jomolhari range and the Bhutan China border mountains. Then we went down the mountain to the Haa Valley. 

Paro Airport view enroute Chelela

Chelela Pass

The Jomolhari Range of Himalaya's - view blocked by clouds

This valley was kept restricted till recent times and has hardly any development. The main road in the town has just a few dozen houses and shops - there is also a parallel road, accessible by a bridge, that has an nice looking school. We did not find anything of interest in Haa Valley. We were so dejected that our last stop was Haa. Actually, Harilal our driver had tried to dissuade us from going and said he felt we would not like it. But we had told him we loved Phobjika so we wanted to see Haa too. We had lunch at a local place ironically called Tandin. It was the worst food we had in Bhutan - it left a very bad taste in our mouth. We laughed when we paid Rs.750 for 3 1/2 plates (incl. driver). But then we didn't have much of a choice and ate whatever we could and left the rest. An important tip while visiting Haa Valley - please carry your own food if there is no arrangement already made for you.

never ever attempt this horror food in Haa

buffet in Tandin, Haa Valley

This hotel is still coming up but they seemed to have a place that looks like a restaurant but they were lazy about taking an order (or maybe we were too late) so they directed us to Tandin. They had good clean washrooms. Would recommend this place and insisting they cook - if stranded in Haa. 

deserted Haa town

school in Haa

Fortunately for us we saw a military vehicle and a familiar face waving at us. The vehicle came to a halt next to us and friends we had made yesterday during our trek got down and we had a good chat for a few minutes. We truly felt such relief to have met them. We checked 2 or 3 shops in the market for chinese wares (we were told that Haa has some good chinese crockery, pots, etc. - which is not true other than during the Haa mela maybe) but apart from some shoes and mostly cheap clothes, there was nothing else here. We then spent 5 minutes on the iron and wooden hanging bridge on the river.

We made our way back to Thimpu, Hotel Wangchuk and caught our pending sleep during the crazily fast maruti omni drive. In Thimpu, we went out for a stroll and some last minute shopping, had dinner at Hotel Tandin Thimpu and then retired for the day. Hotel Wangchuk is a good mid-range hotel and though not too high on frills, it is still a good looking place to stay.

Hotel Wangchuk

Clock Tower Square and Hotel Druk

Shop to find very economical Kira's and Toego's for adults - Norzin Lam, Thimpu

(i did not buy it for me though)

Day 8 and 9 June 12th and 13th, 2013: Thimpu - Phuentsholing - Siliguri - Bagdogra - back home

We had already booked the 8 a.m. bus to Phuentsholing. We had some tea at the restaurant at Wangchuk and then took a cab to the bus stop - a short drive.

Traffic Police 

Yak cheese on strings being sold at the bus stop

And before we knew it we reached the scorching heat of Phuentsholing. After the very pleasant climate inside Bhutan we were mentally and physically incapable of taking the burning hot sun - otherwise our staple in India :)

We caught a nice lunch of rice, dal (awesome), beef curry and chicken fried rice in Om Restaurant - a restaurant opposite the bus stop (holy month got over on June 9th so they were serving non vegetarian) and then hired a cab (Rs.120)  to take us till Jaigaon. 

I cannot express my feeling at the time of crossing the border gate. It was somewhat like waking up from a beautiful dream to back to office on a monday morning.

Once in Jaigaon, i hunted for a Kira (Rs.300) for our kiddo and found it in the narrow alley next to the Bhutan walkway entrance. We had already purchased a Toego for her in Thimpu (Rs.650) from our favourite handicraft store Kurtoe in Norzin Lam next to Hotel Tandin. In the meantime, hubby had hired an ac indica vista (Rs.2700) to take us to Siliguri. 

Thankfully, our return journey to Siliguri was uneventful, no traffic blocks and hence a speed ride once again. So we reached our hotel (pathetic is an understatement) and tried going to the very crowded hongkong market and the other markets in the vicinity. We quickly gave up our pursuit of finding anything of interest and came back to catch a vegetarian dinner at the nearby Mainak Tourist Lodge (which we at first thought was better than our hotel - but not much difference really). It seems almost any hotel in Siliguri would be the same on things like service and hygiene and it is better not the expect too much. Thankfully our airconditioning worked and we slept peacefully. Next day we reorganised our luggage for the flight and took a rick (Rs.350) to the Bagdogra Airport. The airport is unorganised and looks messy, flights usually taking off later than scheduled. We, however, seemed to have covered up lost time enroute as we reached home on time.

Bhutan, the land of the Thunder Dragon - the quaint Himalayan Kingdom was a dream come true. Peaceful, poised, beautiful beyond imagination and humility personified. We took home a thousand memories but most importantly lessons on living better, having lesser, smiling often and expecting lesser. The last Shangri-La indeed.

Will be looking forward to your suggestions and comments so please spare a minute to pen your thoughts about my posts on Bhutan. I will be trying to make a list of things to do, see, buy, visit, carry - whatever comes to mind as important for future travellers. This list might be an addition to this post or a separate post. So do check it out and do keep visiting receipesnmore.blogspot.in for receipes and more............................