Part II - Bhutan - rightly called the last Shangri La

Day 3 - June 7^th, 2013: DAY IN THIMPU (a pictoral depiction)

Next morning we saw some beautiful views of the surrounding hills and then quickly got ready and kept our bags packed for shifting to a better hotel. We went to Hotel Tandin next door for breakfast of chole bhature and puri sabji (both were good although the oil on the puri tasted funny – not stale but smelly). We overheard a family reorganizing travel plans and giving up one room at the hotel – so we approached the desk and immediately got it allotted to us. The check in would be only at 12 noon.

Tandin Restaurant

We were very happy. We then walked up to the permit office at the very end of Norzin Lam. For those not interested in taking a 10-15 minute walk up the street, taxis are always gliding past at 30 km speed and it is easy to hail one. At the permit office we applied for permits to restricted areas of Haa, Punakha, Phobjika and Bhumthang. We were asked to fill only one application form in the name of my husband and submit his copy of the original permit from Phuentsholing. This application was valid for all 3 of us. We were asked to return at 11.30 however on enquiring they said we could collect it anytime till 4 p.m. (barring the lunch timings 1 to 2 p.m. – everywhere in Bhutan).

outside the permit office in Thimpu - the road going down is entire Norzin Lam

The National Textile Museum's new building is now opposite the permit office. It looks like a posh place – however due to shifting from old premises, it was closed. We then came back down the street and visited National Handicrafts Museum. They had things on sale but prices were steep.

 Handicrafts Museum

       

We walked past Hotel Taj Tashi and saw the many handicrafts shops opposite it. They too seemed expensive. We saw someone selling chinese made footwear and the local women flocking there. 

Taj Tashi and handicrafts stores (huts)

After returning back, we hired a taxi for a round trip (Rs.300) to visit the National Memorial Chorten, Changangkha Lhakhang and the Buddha point. The chorten is more of a symbolic place where we saw many Bhutanese offering prayers. 

National Memorial Chorten

Prayers being offered at the National Memorial Chorten

We finished the visit in 10 minutes and then reached the Buddha Point. The huge medicine Buddha statue atop the hill is a Thimpu landmark and construction work around the statue is still in progress. The wind, the atmosphere and the views of surrounding mountains and the city are really nice and it feels good to visit this place.

Thimpu view from Buddha Point

 

At the Buddha Point

Then we went to a beautiful temple (lhakhang) called Changangkha Lhakhang. 

We came back to centre lodge to check out of the room, catch some beef momos, chicken wantons and butter tea (Suja) at Chopsticks restaurant downstairs and then checked in at Hotel Tandin. Chopsticks is a chinese joint and famous with the locals. It serves delicious food and we really loved the food and the yummy butter tea (which tastes like soupy tea).

Chicken Wontons at Chopsticks

 Our room no.313 at Hotel Tandin (small, cosy and very well maintained)

newspaper

Once again we walked up to the permit office to collect our permits and hired a cab for a round trip for Rs.1100 for rest of the sightseeing. At BBS Tower – a view point - we hiked up the hillock to get better pictures of Thimpu but the prayer flags barred the view.

Thimpu view from BBS tower

We then went on to the Takin Reserve. A 5 minute uphill walk from the gate takes you to couple of big enclosures where you get to see Deers and lots of Takin (Bhutan's national animal - a himalayan species not found elsewhere) - there is also a legend attached to its unique goat - cow look.

There is nothing else at this reserve, locally referred to as the zoo. The internet gives information that in keeping with Buddhist ideologies, the government had freed all animals into the wild however since the Takin could not survive in the wild and came back to the streets to seek food and shelter, the government decided to keep them at this reserve.

Next, we proceeded to the Art School called Zorig Chusum where 13 traditional arts are taught and since Bhutan pays its artisans well, we realised it is seen as a promising career by many youngsters we saw at the school. However they were not taking visitors that day since the King had visited them in the morning and hence school was closed for the day. We, however, liked the art school shop opposite the gate and made a few purchases.

Four friends - the story depiction at Art School

Students at the school

Art School Shop - this pretty lady helped us with our purchases

Tangkha's (wall hangings painted by hand in natural colours and sometimes gold - usually depicting deities) are famous and equally expensive - ranging from $100 for a small piece to a few thousand dollars - depending on size of the thangkha and the work on it. Handloom cloth and items made from them are also popular. Eastern provinces make items from yak wool and they are pretty too. Then there are the usual key chains, fridge magnets, etc. Prayer wheels are also available in plenty - a small one made from original material costs about Rs.750. You can also find Bhutan's colourful stamps in these handicrafts shops if you do not have time to visit the post office. 

A shop next to Hotel Tandin - called Kurtoe Handicrafts had an excellent collection and the ladies there were very helpful. We purchased many small gift items from Kurtoe and also got some discount.

An excerpt from wikitravel (modified for phone number)

• Yarkay Central. This shopping center located across from Hotel Norling on Norzin Lam has four good quality craft stores: Kelzang Handicrafts (Tel: 322-469) is the most commercial and sells a range of goods, including t-shirts; Druk Handicraft (Tel: 322-258) and Kurtoe Handicrafts (Tel: +975-2-324 642 / 325-883) specialize in woven goods and Karchung (Tel: mobile 17607724) sells a small, but good quality range of art work and wood carvings.

After visit to the Art School, we asked the cab driver to drop us at the Druk Air office at Changlam Plaza on Chang Lam. Before leaving most taxi drivers will give you their phone numbers so you can contact them if required for any other travel plans. Similarly, our driver Karma Tshering, gave us his number. At the Druk Air office, we enquired about domestic flight to and from Bhumthang valley (considered the most picturesque of all valleys in Bhutan). Domestic flights in Bhutan presently go till the east Yonphula and Bhumthang is a pick up drop enroute. I am not sure whether the other east destination Ghelephu is operational yet – but there is an airport there too. We hardly had any time on hand to make a road trip (takes about 8 – 10 hours from Thimpu) till Bhumthang so we were keen on trying out flights. However, the flights operate only twice a week and it could not be accommodated in our schedule. We were offered flight fares (one way) of Rs.4,200 per adult and Rs.3,700 for child. Children’s discount we were told would be available only at the Druk Air office, not on the website. We consoled ourselves that we would return to Bhutan for visiting Bhumthang next time. We then went to a nice eatery called Zombala (once again a locals hub) for the superior momos, chowmein and thukpa - vegetarian due to holy month. Zombala is a must visit. It is not difficlt to find but it is in an alley. It is in Phendey Lam, one road above Norzin Lam (if you stand facing swiss bakery then to the right hand side - about 200 mtrs.) There was also a small tailoring shop near Zombala where i found an exquisite purse for a bargain.

super yummmm food at Zombala - must visit - i fell in love with that chowmein

Later we called up Karma and negotiated Rs.7000 for a trip between 8^th and 9^th June from Thimpu - Punakha - Phobjika Valley and then drive back to Thimpu for bus ticket booking and drop till hotel in Paro.

I also called up Hotel Dewachen (Rs.3200) in Phobjika Valley and booked us a room. After relaxing for about an hour in our room, we had a cup of good tea at the restaurant (daughter was elated that it took only 1 minute from the room to the restaurant) and then hailed a cab to reach the Trashichoe Dzong at 5.30 p.m. This is the Government office that is attended by his Majesty, the King. Its importance is much like our Parliament House or White House in the US. It is a grand Dzong (dzongs are monastic centres plus administrative offices) and the ruling Kings Palace is across the Trashichoe Dzong, pictures are not encouraged. There is usually a shrine inside every Dzong and taking pictures inside a shrine is prohibited in Bhutan. Visitors are allowed to visit the Dzong after office hours 5 p.m. to 6.15 / 6.30 p.m. in the evening. One requires atleast 45 minutes to 1 hour to take pictures (architecture, wall paintings and serenity of this huge place) and view this Dzong, so reaching early is recommended.

approach

entire walls beautifully depict buddhist culture and deities

the shrine inside

discussion on indian politics

inside bhutan political area 

roses everywhere

some part of the royal palace - 

guess this one was clicked inadvertently

Phewww..........are you as tired as i was posting these photographs ?? :)

We did not find a cab easily and had to walk up the road to a junction before getting one till our hotel. We photocopied our restricted area permit (once again for Rs.2) and then  I went out for some retail therapy. Found some nice chinese utensils in the shop next to the door of Ambient Café. Inside another handicrafts shop, there was a woman weaving. Most eastern Bhutanese women are experts in weaving and in the art of making local alcoholic drink called “Ara”. Bhutan is expensive for its domestic handicrafts (most other products are imports from India, China and Malaysia).

For dinner we went to Ama Restaurant, opposite Tandin and found the place packed with patrons. Our Bhutanese meal arrived rather quickly. The plain chicken soup was delicious. The stir fried beef and pork seemed underdone however the Shamu Datshi (mushroom in cheese curry) and rice were good.

innumerable chillies are the main ingredient of any "datshi"

At Tandin, we settled the hotel bill the same night since we were starting for Punakha early next morning. We called it a day, retiring peacefully with a ceiling fan at Tandin and lot of Rs.100 a day wifi to connect back to our world. The dogs in the lane were more peaceful than those on the main road :) 

Looking forward to your comments and suggestions. Part III follows shortly. Until then please keep visiting receipesnmore.blogspot.in for receipes and more...........